Portofino is often synonymous with the shimmering Piazzetta, the parade of superyachts, and those iconic facades reflecting in the Ligurian Sea. In a place of undeniable glamour, my true passion lies in revealing the soul that exists behind the postcard, that is, the places where time slows down and nature takes the lead.
When asked for a truly “hidden” experience, I love pointing toward the Valle dei Mulini (The Valley of the Mills). Located within the protected heart of Portofino Regional Park, this valley is a sanctuary that remains largely untouched by the typical tourist flow.
Just a few steps away from the turquoise bay of Paraggi, there is a discreet stone path that leads you inland. The transition is instant: the salt spray of the Ligurian Sea is replaced by the cool, earthy scent of ancient chestnut trees and wild herbs. This is not just a hike, it is a deep immersion into a lush ecosystem that has been preserved for decades. The path follows the Acqua Viva stream, and as you walk deeper into the woods, the sound of the water becomes a rhythmic companion.
What I love most about this valley is the tangible connection to our heritage. Centuries ago, this was the beating heart of local production, with over thirty stone mills powered by the stream. Milling was the Valley’s inhabitants main commercial activity. People came to Paraggi from the sea and climbed up to the Valley with their produce on the backs of mules. Today, the mills’ ruins are draped in moss and ivy, a powerful reminder of the balance between human history and the resilience of nature.
The true reward lies, however, at the end of the trail, after one hour walk. Tucked away among the ferns, an old stone mill has been brought back to life as a rustic retreat. There are no white tablecloths here, just the luxury of simplicity. You can sit on a wooden bench and enjoy a plate of traditional pasta with fresh pesto and a glass of local wine or a mug of craft beer , surrounded by the rustle of leaves and the song of birds. In that moment, the glitz of the coast feels a world away. You can also admire ancient communal laundry fountains that were typical in rural villages and used by the inhabitants of the nearby communities. Another testament to the life that once thrived in this place.
To me, the Valle dei Mulini represents the “green heart” of Portofino, and it offers a rare chance to disconnect from the digital world and reconnect with the land. Once you have arrived here, you can choose to go back to town or you can take different well-marked paths to continue enjoying your walk in nature and reach other villages such as San Fruttuoso or Santa Margherita. My suggestion is wearing comfortable walking shoes and starting the journey in the morning to catch the softest light through the trees. By the time you return to the shore, the sun is usually hitting the sea at a golden angle, and you realize that while Portofino captures your eyes, this silent valley is what captures your heart. This is my secret gift to those seeking the authentic.
Alessia Farinato is a member of Les Clefs d’Or Italy. This article has been published in its original form.
I am the Head Concierge at Splendido, A Belmond Hotel in Portofino, a place that I am proud to call home. My journey began with a degree in Political Science, but my heart was in hospitality. This led me to a Master’s Degree in Hotel and Tourism Management at UET – European University School of Tourism - which opened the doors to Belmond in 2017 with an internship at La Residencia in Mallorca. When I moved to Splendido in 2018, I simply fell in love with its soul and I never left. Wearing the Golden Keys is for me a lifetime commitment to excellence. I am deeply passionate about creating those personal, unexpected moments that guests carry with them forever. Beyond the desk, my focus is my team and my philosophy is to lead by example, fostering a workspace where we serve with genuine heart and passion. My goal is to share the deep love I have for this region and this Hotel with every guest who walks through our doors.
Nestled on a hillside overlooking the picturesque harbor of Portofino, Splendido, A Belmond Hotel, offers a unique escape on the fabled Italian Riviera. A former 16th-century monastery, the multi-awarded hotel exudes timeless glamour and boasts breathtaking sea views from its restaurants, gardens, rooms and signature pool. Guests can indulge in exquisite dining experiences, relax by the saltwater infinity pool or at the Dior Spa Splendido, or explore the charming village of Portofino just a short stroll away.
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